Welcome back for Part 2 of the Zippered Necessary Clutch Wallet! Please make sure you have read Part 1 and have purchased the Necessary Clutch pattern from Emmaline bags! Check the end of this post for a FREE download of the full tutorial!
*This tutorial got a major overhaul on March 19, 2017. There are many, many, MANY more images and tips added. If you had read the previous version, you will love this version even more! Now onto part 2!*
Zippered Necessary Clutch Wallet Part 2
Baste your card slots to the main interior piece. Use a 1/8in seam allowance and stitch down the two long edges.
Now we will be cutting our slot to turn the wallet out when we are done sewing. We cut this slot now so there’s no chance of catching the exterior at the end! Cut a 3-4 inch slot just under your seam, make sure you catch ALL the layers!
Baste your side flaps onto the interior with a 1/8in seam allowances to the sides. This will prevent them from sliding around when you sew in your zipper! Snip the corners so they follow the curves.
Mark your zipper at 2.5in up from the end of the teeth. For this style, it’s the end of the zipper!
Now we are going to mark the spots where the zipper will be clipped/sewn. On your EXTERIOR fabric, mark the middle along the long sides (Black arrow) then 5/8in (pink arrows) on each side of that mark. Do this on each long edge so the zipper lines up!
Using these marks, you will line the 2.5in zipper mark with the TOP 5/8in mark on your exterior fabric. Your zipper will be placed on top RIGHT SIDE DOWN! Be sure to ease and not stretch your zipper around the corners so it turns smoothly. *Do not clip unless you really have to. the #5 zippers will bend nicely along the curve!*
You will start and stop sewing at the TOP 5/8in points on either long side! Make sure you start sewing on the side with your zipper pull!
Stitch that side of the zipper down using an 1/8in seam allowance. Make sure you squash that zipper down as you sew. The nylon teeth will move any way you need them to.
You will then clip and stitch the other side in the same manor, starting and stopping at the opposite 5/8 inch marks from the first side. Clip your excess zipper out of the way as you sew!
Start sewing again on the 5/8in mark that the zipper pull end is on or you risk the chance of your zipper stretching and not lining up!
Once that zipper is attached, square off the excess zipper end. Fold the teeth to a corner and stitch 1/8in across the top to hold them in place. Clip off the excess leaving 1/2in overhang.
For the end will the zipper pull, pin it towards the center. We will NOT be sewing across this side but it will keep it out of the way!
Now that we have the zipper stitched down, we can stitch on the interior bits.With your interior bits RIGHT SIDE UP place your exterior with the zipper, RIGHT SIDE DOWN facing the interior. Line up the sides, edges and corners and clip all the way around it. Don’t be shy with your clips, use MANY! Make sure you push the zipper out of the way as you clip.
Following along on the same stitches you have already done on the exterior (along the zipper), stitch those pieces together, this time using a 1/4in seam allowance! Remember you will NOT be sewing over the zipper pull side, rather starting and stopping at the 5/8in mark. (This can be seen where your previous stitching starts and stops!) You can sew over the end we cut short!
Now STOP, do not go any further! Check ALL of your curves, did they land smooth? are any spots wonky and need to be straightened? Do you have a spot that buckled? Fix it now. Do a test turning it out to make sure everything looks OK. Trust me, you will thank me for making you do this 😉
Once you are positive everything looks OK, trim your seam allowance along the curves and 2 long edges. This will help reduce the bulk when you top stitch!
Turn that wallet out from the slot we cut earlier. Pull the corners out nicely and lay everything as flat as you can.
Before you give it a good press, pull the zipper out so you can just see the tip of the pull. Bonus tip: if you curl the zipper teeth towards the exterior, you will be able to iron it flatter and stop stitch better! DO NOT touch the teeth with your iron. You will be very, very, VERY sad if you melt it!
Before we topstitch, I want to show you a trick! I pin all the layers before I stitch. This lets you pull the zipper out taut and helps flatten things to reduce the bulk!
To topstitch, you will start about a 1/2in away from your zipper pull and go all the way around until you are 1/2in away from it again! Make sure your seam allowance for top stitching is no bigger than 1/8in or your zipper pocket will not fit!
Don’t worry about that open bit where the zipper pull comes out. The fabric/zipper will be in so snug that it doesn’t need stitching/is near impossible to sew! Add a little glue in there if you feel needed to keep it secure!
Cut Zipper end off 1/2in from the end of the teeth.
Apply your zippered pocket as you normally would on the Necessary Clutch Wallet however, use a 4in wide by 3/4in box instead. You can make the box a little wider if you would like but that exterior zipper causes a lot more bulk that in the standard pattern!
Finish up your side flap as described in the Necessary Clutch Wallet Pattern.
Now zip up your wallet and enjoy your masterpiece!
Still lots of cozy room inside!
I hope you have enjoyed my UPDATED tutorial and that you enjoy making Zippered Wallets! I also have a little write up about how I do my Border Application of the Necessary Clutch Wallet if you would like to check it out!
As always, if you have any questions, you can leave a comment below or send me a message anytime 🙂
Happy Sewing friends!